LIGHTING
Q. How do you cut lighting panels?
A. Using a Plaskolite cutting tool and straight edge, score panel on smooth side until halfway through the material. Scored side up, place section of lighting panel to be used on a table or workbench. Overhang scored groove parallel to edge of the table 1/8". Gently bend overhanging piece in a downward fashion. When finished, lightly sand edge to avoid injury.
Q. Why doesn't my 2' X 4' panel measure 24" X 48" exactly?
A. Plaskolite lighting panels are nominal, which means they can measure from 23"-24" to 47"-48".
Q. Are Plaskolite lighting panels UL rated?
A. Plaskolite acrylic and styrene lighting panels are UL94 HB rated.
Q. The label on my lighting panel won't come off. What can I use to remove it?
A. Use WD40 or Goo Gone.
Q. What is the light transmission of Plaskolite's lighting panels?
A. Styrene is approximately 86%. Acrylic is approximately 92%.
Q. Can I purchase a lighting panel larger than 2' X 4'?
A. Plaskolite manufactures a 36" X 60" acrylic panel in cracked ice clear and cracked ice white. Other sizes would need to be cut from a 48" X 96" sheet. For more information on 48" X 96" sheets, contact your local plastics distributor.
Q. How do I cut egg crate louvers?
A. Use a small coping saw, tin snips or heavy duty scissors.
ACRYLIC
Q. How do I cement acrylic?
A. Clean cut edges and properly machine. Improper cuts can cause high stress on the joint. Remember, never flame polish edges prior to cementing. A flat, clean edge is needed for a good join. Apply cement with a syringe, cement applicator or eye dropper. Solvent mixtures with low volatility should be used. It is more difficult to cement acrylic sheet to materials other than acrylic. It would be more favorable to keep these parts together mechanically.
Q. What cement should I use?
A. Weld-on cement or equivalent.
Q. How do I cut acrylic?
A. Scribing and breaking acrylic is a good method when quantities are small. This method can be used for sheet thicknesses of .250" or thinner. We suggest using a Plaskolite cutting tool or a Fletcher Terry Knife. A circular saw is used for straight cuts. Recommended 80 teeth per 10" diameter blade. Please see pages & of the Optix User's Guide for more information. (Page #'s to be determined)
Q. How do I clean acrylic?
A. Use Plaskolite Anti-Static Cleaner or any plastic cleaner. Do not use glass cleaner or products with ammonia or alcohol. You can also use a mild soap solution.
Q. What type of caulk do I use on acrylic?
A. GE Silicone Sealant Caulk or equivalent.
Q. How do I install acrylic in a window?
A.
Recommended Thicknesses:
For windows up to 24" X 36" — .125" thick
From 24" X 36" to 36" X 48" — .187" thick
From 36" X 48" to 48" X 72" — .250" thick
Expansion Allowances
| For Window Sash Size: |
Cut Acrylic Shorter than opening by: |
| Up to 24" X 24" |
1/8" in width and length |
| Up to 24" X 48" |
1/8" in width and 3/16" in length |
| Up to 36" X 72" |
3/16" in width and 1/4" in length |
Rabbet Depth (Width of Frame)
| For Window Sash Size: |
Rabbet Depth (Width of Frame)" |
| Up to 24" X 36" |
1/2" to 5/8" |
| Up to 36" X 48" |
5/8" to 3/4" |
| Up to 48" X 72" |
7/8" to 1" |
Caulking
For acrylic windows under 24" in length you may use any non-hardening glazing compound. For windows over 24" a continuous removable stop with a polysulfide sealant or butyl tape must be used.
Mounting Holes
Acrylic windows should be installed in frames and held in place with clips or with a continuous metal or wood bead. Because plastics expand and contract 10 times as much as glass, we do not recommend the bolting of windows or signs to a frame. However, if it is absolutely necessary to fasten a small or medium size panel with screws, the mounting holes must be large enough to allow for expansion and contraction.
Example: If you install a 4' sheet with 3/16" diameter screws, all holes must be at least 3/8"
diameter. For indoor applications the holes can be 5/16" diameter. Long, narrow panels can have slots instead of oversize holes.
Do not use flat head (countersunk) screws. You must use round head screws and a large washer, preferably a stainless steel washer with a rubber washer underneath. The screws should be backed off half a turn after tightening, to allow the sheet to expand and also to avoid local stresses.
Cleaning of New Glazing
If acrylic is to be installed in window sash, the masking paper should be removed just prior to installation.
As an alternative method, instead of removing the masking paper entirely, you can roll it back approximately 1" to 2" along all edges.
This will protect the surface of the acrylic sheet from glazing compound and sealant smears.
After you have applied the glazing compound, you must immediately remove the masking paper. If masking paper is exposed to the sun, the adhesive will harden. After a few days of such exposure, it will be impossible to remove.
Glazing compound and residue of masking paper adhesive should be removed with a soft clean cloth and dampened with isopropyl alcohol. The remaining film can be washed off with soap and water.
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